Textiles of India

The spectrum of variances in textile traditions in India is much larger than one would expect in any similarly sized geographical or population expanse. The main reason for this variety is that textile traditions are material manifestations of the large spectrum of separate ethnic sub-groups. Secondly, they have had close to two thousand years to unfold and develop their intrinsic identities, thereby meaning the deviations in textile traditions have had sufficient time to bloom. Thirdly, over the centuries, several migrations into India have occurred - though they carried with them their skills to a totally new geographical area, original resources for their craft may not have always been available and substitution may have been forced. Further, local tastes and patronage may have forced adaptation or mutations giving birth to new variants of the old tradition.

Linked with the textile traditions is the handloom tradition in India, which is complex and ever changing. Many regions are known for producing a certain type of fabric or sari, and that is how most fabrics and saris get their names - from the place they are woven. Most handloom production occurs in private homes, where the entire family is engaged in some aspect of weaving.

The landscape of Indian textiles is extremely varied and complex and presents an interesting matrix to study.

North India:
The beautiful valley of Kashmir is famed for its shawls - pashmina and shahtoosh (the latter is banned now). Pashmina weaving began some 400 years ago in the Kashmir Valley and was earlier considered the choice fabric of the royal families in India. The pashmina wool comes from changthangi or pashmina goat which is a special breed of goat indigenous to high altitudes of the Himalayas in India, Nepal, Pakistan and Tibet. Pashmina shawls are hand spun, woven and embroidered in Kashmir.

Jammu lies in the foothills of the Himalayas and its textile tradition has much in common with that of its neighbouring states, Punjab and Haryana. The most notable textile of Jammu is the block-printed calicoes of Samba which is reputed to have been a centre of textile production long before many other famous Indian textile towns.

Weaving of durries (floor spreads) in myriad motifs and designs especially by young girls in the villages has been a long-standing tradition in Punjab.

The holy Ganges dominates the state of Uttar Pradesh and so does its tradition of silk. Varanasi region is the traditional weaving centre of Banarasi Brocades. Banarasi brocade is an interweaving of colored silk and gold threads to form the most attractive floral designs. The brocades are without doubt India’s most fascinating silken fabrics. While Madanpura village is known for its highly sophisticated designs, shades of colours and effective use of gold and silver zari, Alaipura village’s silk is considered coarser and is mainly used for furnishing.

West and Central India:
The prosperous state of Gujarat and the princely land of Rajasthan have long been famous for the cultivation of cotton and for the early use of dyes. The textiles in the region have a fascinating range of dyed and block printed fabrics.

Block printing comprises pasting of carved wooden blocks soaked in different colours (also vegetable dyes) on the fabric. In this hand block printing, the design is first drawn on wood using a sharp needle and then the desired design is carved using the chisel, hammer, file, nails etc. The printing involves laying the cloth/fabric, which is to be printed, on flat tables and impressions are made using the beautifully carved blocks. The most important centres for block printing in this region are Sanganer, Jaipur, Bagru and Barmer in Rajasthan, and Anjar, Deesa, Ahmedabad, Jetpur, Rajkot, Porbandar and Bhavnagar in Gujarat.

Tie-and-dye work, in which clothes are tied, either with string or rubber bands into some sort of pattern, is also well-known here. This form involves the use of resist or barriers to protect certain portions of the fabric from the dye, thereby enabling several colours to be used on the same fabric. Some of the well-known styles of tie-and-dye works are bandhani, lehria, mashru and patan patola.

The other important weaving centres in the region are Paithan and Aurangabad in Maharashtra and Maheshwar and Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh.

The durrie, a simple rug that was once used as an underlay, has now become one of Rajasthan’s weaving traditions. Weavers sit on looms in villages, creating an interesting blend of patterns in an exciting combination of colours. Made from cotton yarn in areas such as Bikaner, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, woolen durries made from camel hair are also available!

South India:
South India was relatively untouched by the invasions that affected the cultural fabric of the North and hence has over the centuries retained its many ancient traditions of textile. South Indian silk, mainly made into saris, is one of the finest; the designs are traditionally Indian with special stress on borders and pallu (end piece). The silk produced here is said to have the capacity to endure strenuous washing on a granite stone! The towns of Kanchipuram, Kumbakonam and Tanjore are the major centres of silk weaving. The natural silk mainly comes from the Bangalore area (which has ideal conditions for rearing mulberry silk worms) and the zari (gold or silver wrapped thread) from Surat in Gujarat.

Cotton weaving is widespread in Kanchipuram, Coimbatore, Salem, Pudukkotai, Madurai and Karur. The artists in Andhra Pradesh produce the beautiful Kalamkari textile which derives its name from kalam meaning pen, and kari meaning work. In the 18th century there was kalamkari trade between Europe and India; the designs were known as cheeti, a word from which the European chintz was derived. Andhra Pradesh is also known for the Pochampalli silk saris with geometrical designs.

‘Bleeding Madras’ shirts of Chennai, made of hand-spun yarn woven in India became popular in the West in the 1960s. Dyes that were not colourfast were used, resulting in bleeding and fading colours that gave the fabric a new, personalized look each time it was laundered.

East India:
Silks of Bengal are acclaimed the world over. The best-known Bengal silk, which carries its legendary name, is the Baluchari sari - a product of exquisite design, and fabulous weaving technique.

Bihar is the largest producer of tassar silk in India, Bhagalpur being the paradise for tassar weaving.

Assam is the home of several types of handloom silks, the most prominent and prestigious being muga, the golden silk exclusive only to this state and the finest of India’s wild silks. The loom is a prized possession in every Assamese home and weaving has been a way of life in the state since times immemorial.

Unlike other parts of India, where much of the spinning and weaving is in the hands of men, spinning and weaving in Nagaland is the exclusive monopoly of women. Weaving specimens from Nagaland comprise a wide range of wrappers and shawls, waistcloths and bodice, girdles, scarves and skirts resplendent with skilful colour combinations.

The state of Manipur is also known for its cotton and silk weaving while Orissa is known for its ikat textile.

Traditional Indian Embroidery:
Embroidery which is essentially meant to strengthen and decorate the fabric has always been an integral part of the household tradition in various parts of India.

The Kutch and Saurashtra region, which has a large population of pastoralists, is the richest source of folk embroidery in the world. Dress materials, wall hangings, quilts and animal trappings are embroidered, appliqued, decorated with beadwork and embellished with mirrors, sequins, buttons and shells. Each tribe passes on unchanged from generation to generation its own distinct designs, colours and range of stitches.

Phulkari, meaning flower work, is a spectacular style of embroidery peculiar to Punjab. Phulkari has its origins in the early 19th century when the women’s head cloth was highlighted with embroidered flowers. Over the years this embroidery became heavy and complex and the heavily embroidered head cloth came to be known as bagh (literally garden). In this style the embroidery covered every inch of the fabric making it completely invisible. In Punjab almost every ceremony is given a touch of additional colour and richness by the use of Phulkari on account of it being considered auspicious.

Lucknow’s chikankari is delicate, fine embroidery done in white cotton threads on plain muslin cloth. This embroidery was introduced from the state of Bengal into Lucknow, which is still the chief centre of its production. Lucknow’s zardozi and kamdani hand embroideries with gold and silver thread are also appreciated far and wide.

Kantha is the most popular form of embroidery practised by rural women in West Bengal. Kantha originated from the way in which Bengali housewives mended old clothes by taking out a strand of thread from the colourful border of their saris and making simple designs with them.

Appliqué is a decoration or trimming made of one material attached by sewing or gluing to another. This art is widely prevalent in the Eastern coast of Orissa. Applique work of Orissa comprises special canopies, fans, umbrellas and other decorative items.

The kasuti embroidery of Karnataka is a stylized form with stitches based on the texture of the fabric.

Another well-known embroidery in South India is the one by Toda tribal women living in the Nilgiri mountains. They wear a toga like garment which is embroidered with exquisite patterns.

Arts and Crafts of India

The traditions of Indian arts and crafts are some of the oldest and diverse in the world. They represent a unique and continuous ethos and aesthetic sensibility right through thousands of years – that has seen a remarkable ability to assimilate, remake, re-shape the incoming styles, ideas, artists and techniques and yet retain the core essence.

Indian crafts are a riot of colour, textures and motifs, materials and mediums that changes with each region, village and community having its own distinct style and history. The history, weather, geography and economic condition also have a great effect on the types of art and crafts found. Normally the techniques and skills are passed down families, fathers to sons, mothers to daughters or within communities or schools. Traditionally there have always been guilds - at times one’s caste decided the crafts and arts one could practise.

The earliest specimens of Indian arts and crafts go back 4500 years to Indus Valley Civilization or Harappan Culture. The best examples of Harappan Culture include jewellery, seals, pottery, toys, games, terracotta, shell and bead making and bronze figures.

The finer crafts of India had flourished over the centuries thanks to royal patronage and trade demand. So jewellery, embroidery, silk, brocades, ivory and bone carving, carpets and silver ware were in demand in the country and else ware. However, colonial times and post independence saw a decline in demand, so a lot of craftsman’s had to change professions, as there was no longer a great demand or enough royal or other patronage.

North India:
In Northern India, Kashmir is the centre of carpet weaving; the technique for which was imported into the region from Persia prior to the Mughal era. No wonder, the carpets, even today, have markedly Persian motifs. However, there is whole lot more to Kashmir besides the carpets. Kashmir is also famous for the art of embroidery and the region is known worldwide for Pashmina shawls. The artisans of the state are known for their elaborately decorated papier-mache bowls, boxes and trays and for fine carving in walnut wood.

There are many Tibetan refugees in the state of Himachal Pradesh, who have brought with them their craft of making superbly colourful Tibetan rugs. The Tibetan jewelry is also very beautiful which is found all over North India as well as North-Eastern states. Fine shawls, scarves of pashmina, pahari miniature paintings are very popular crafts in the Kullu valley.

In the state of Uttar Pradesh, while Varanasi produces world famous silks and brocades, Lucknow is famous for delicate embroidery work 'chikankari' done on light fabrics like cotton and organdie. As befits the home of the Taj Mahal, Agra is famed for its marble-inlay, often incorporating precious stones. Other major handicrafts in Agra besides inlay work are: leatherwear, brassware, carpets, jewelery and embroidery. Uttar Pradesh is also known for the carpet making centres of Bhadohi and Mirzapur. The carpets produced here are regarded as one of India's best. They display a strong Mughal influence in terms of design, technique and style. They are either made of pure wool or mixed with silk.

In the heartland of India lies Madhya Pradesh. In this land of wonderful and contrasting variety, handicrafts lend a touch of mystique - a charm unique to Madhya Pradesh. They radiate an aura, exhibit hereditary skills, whisper painstaking craftsmanship and evoke an urgent desire to learn more about the land and its colourful people.

A deftly woven silk or a cotton blended saree, block-printed fabrics, stuffed leather toys or floor coverings, folk paintings, bamboo, cane or jute work, woodcraft, stone-craft, iron-craft, metal-craft, terra-cotta, papier mache, zari work (gold thread embroidery), ornaments, dolls...each hand-crafted product of Madhya Pradesh is charming enough to sweep you off your feet.

South India:
South India has a lot to offer by way of arts and crafts. From silk to finely carved sandalwood and rosewood figures to brassware and semi-precious stones are various crafts of South India.

Karnataka state is noted for its fine silks and handicrafts. You can buy shimmering silk saris and fabrics. A range of finely carved sandalwood and rosewood figures and articles, wooden inlay, toys, brassware, gold and silver jewelry are other well known handicrafts of the region.

From various towns and cities of Tamil Nadu you can buy splendid handloom silk and cotton fabrics, especially the silk sarees from Kanchipuram in vibrant colours. A range of finely crafted bronzes, brass lamps, wood and stone carvings and Thanjavur paintings and brass plates in copper and silver are other options in Tamil Nadu. In Ooty, chunky silver jewelry and hand embroidered fabrics are major attractions.

With a rich heritage of arts and crafts, Kerala offers several interesting mementoes. Kerala specialises in bell metal, wood, cane, fibre and coconut-shell craft. Popular souvenirs from Kerala include Kathakali models in wood, miniature snake-boats, restrained rosewood carvings, as well as the sea-shell confections.

Also in Kerala, and to a lesser extent in Tamil Nadu, you will find beautiful and incredibly vibrant miniature paintings on leaf skeletons, enclosed on a printed card, depicting rural and domestic scenes as well as gods and goddesses.

Andhra Pradesh has a rich tradition in handicrafts, with craftsmanship handed down from generation to generation. Bidri, the most famous handicraft of this state, is a metal craft that derives its name from Bidar, the hometown of this exquisite craft. Decorative, beautifully painted wooden articles like furniture, bowls, lamps, ash trays, boxes are typical items.

Andhra Pradesh is also known for Kalamkari hand painting with vegetable dyes. Only four basic colours are used to depict scenes from mythology. Hyderabad today, is the largest pearl centre of India where you can buy exquisite pearl jewellery. Andhra Pradesh also has an age-old tradition of hand-woven fabrics. Silk and cotton sarees from Pochampalli, Venkatagiri, Nayudupet, Gadwal, Narayanpet and Dharmavaram are household names throughout India.

East India:
The arts and crafts of the east are more down-to-earth, epitomized by the terracotta and pottery handicrafts, folk bronzes and kantha needlework of Bengal. The state of Orissa reflects its temple traditions with soapstone carvings of extraordinary intricacy, and appliqué work from the village of Pipli, originally home to the workshops that produced the enormous covers of the deities of the Jagannath temple in Puri. Silver filigree work, stone and wood carvings, patta paintings, tie and dye textiles, brass and horn work are available at most of the places.

The people in Assam and north-east have a tradition of artistic craftsmanship. A variety of mementoes are available in Assam like, muga silk, bell metal, cane work, woolen shawls. Assam being the commercial capital of the north-east, its markets are noisy, crowded and well-stocked. Arunachal Pradesh offers a variety of wood carvings, carpets and shawls. In Shillong, in the state of Meghalaya, one can have an interesting experience of seeing people of different tribes in colourful traditional attire. Here, one can get good bargains for hand-woven shawls, handicrafts, orange flower honey and cane work.

Manipur specializes in handloom which is a cottage industry in the state and almost every household owns a loom, with women, busy in the creation of typically unique native designs. Pick up an exotic shawl, scarf, blanket, cushion cover, bedspread or a variety of handicraft mainly in bamboo. Mizoram offers a variety of traditional Mizo handicrafts and especially the bamboo hat that is made of waterproof wild Hnahthial leaves. Tripura is known for its exceptional hand-woven cotton fabrics with tribal motifs, wood carvings, decorative articles made from bamboo roots, bamboo and cane furniture and other exquisite handicrafts. Nagaland and Sikkim also have their share of traditional handicrafts. Besides the above specialties, in all these north-eastern states, you will also find Tibetan jewelry, even chunkier and more folk-like than Rajasthan.

West India:
Rajasthan excels in enameling, lacquer and filigree work and block-printed silks and muslin. Mirror work is another art native to this area. For Western tastes, the heavy folk-art jewelry of Rajasthan has special appeal. Though it is found all-over India, those in Rajasthan are particularly beautiful. Jaipur is famous for its ‘blue pottery’ and semi precious stones, Jodhpur for antique styled furniture; and, Udaipur is particularly well known for reproduction of old miniature paintings.

Gujarat state has been renowned for its exquisite handicrafts since ancient times to the present day. Gujarat offers the best of wonderfully crafted furnishings, furniture, textiles and jewelry, which would appeal to even the most discerning buyer. The famous Sankheda wooden furniture is a Gujarat specialty. Also famous are storage boxes, metal jewelry, copper bells, baked clay items and a host of other delightful crafts.

Gujarat also produces beautiful, hand-woven tie-dyed textiles, popular chakla patchwork and glass wall hangings. Intricate embroidered garments include skirts, blouses, kurtas and jackets. The Rann of Kutch is renowned for its mirror work.

Although Mumbai is a gigantic emporium attracting goods from all over India, two of the most well-known handicrafts of Maharashtra are Kolhapuri chappals and the Paithani sari in silk, bordered with opulent zari. Handloom silks are Aurangabad’s chief delights, as are the delicate muslin and silks of Khambat (better known as Cambay).

The original and traditional crafts of Goa include the pottery and terracotta items like flower garden pots, bowls with floral designs, figures of saints, Gods and Goddesses and animals, ashtrays and pen holders. Goa is also famous for brass metal casting, a craft passed on from one generation to another practiced on hereditary basis. The brass metal ware craft items include oil lamps in various designs, candle stands, temple towers, church bells, ashtrays, etc. Other well-known handicrafts of Goa are wooden laquerware/wood turning, crochet & embroidery, bamboo craft, fibre craft, jute macramé craft, coconut mask and sea-shell craft.

Write to us for any query on textiles and handicrafts tours in India at contact@storyofindia.com and we will be delighted to assist you.